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Frenchie to Go | Summertime, and the Eating is Easy, B
Terroirs d’Avenir boutique While we were enjoying a good, casual, off-the-cuff lunch at Frenchie to Go, chef Gregory Marchand’s breakfast-and-lunch eat-in or takeaway place next to his home table,...
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La Table de Breizh Café, Cancale | A Culinary Romance Between Brittany and...
I’ve been in love with Brittany for nearly thirty years, which isn’t surprising, because I grew up in New England. From my very first visit, this friendly delightfully shaggy and craggy green Celtic...
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Faggio, Paris | Great Pizza, Lousy Name, B
So I’m having a cautious flirtation with Faggio, the ur hip new pizzeria in ur hip Pigalle in Paris. I’m not sure if it will last for lots of different reasons, but for the time being I’ve found a...
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Les Fables de la Fontaine, Paris | Julia Sedefdjian, An Audacious New Talent,...
Oyster in kiwi juice An intriguing if imperfect recent meal at the new version of Les Fables de la Fontaine, an expensive Michelin starred fish house founded by chef Christian Constant in its...
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La Rotonde, Paris | The Pleasures of Simplicity, B+
Like most Paris brasseries, La Rotonde was founded long before people started going to restaurants for revelations. No, in those days, people went to restaurants to eat, and they pretty much knew what...
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Le Champ des Lunes, Lauris | A Dazzlingly Creative New Chef Arrives in...
Domaine Fontenille by Serge Chapuis When the summer throngs descend upon the Luberon, the tenderloin of Provence, this year, I have no doubt that Le Champ des Lunes, the table gastronomique of the...
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Canard & Champagne, Paris | A Delicious New French Couple, B
@Stephane Adam Canard & Champagne, a new restaurant in the Passage des Panoramas in Paris, has a very clever concept. Occupying the magnificent landmarked former premises of an 18th century...
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Champeaux, Paris | A Fine Feint at Gastronomic Democracy in Les Halles, B-
Champeaux is gastronaut Alain Ducasse’s new brasserie in the revamped Forum des Halles in Paris. I’ve been several times, and I rather like it. It is, of course, still a work in progress, but it’s...
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L’Assiette, Paris | A Superb Bistro in Montparnasse, A-
L’Assiette @ Stephane Riss Chef David Rathgeber’s restaurant L’Assiette is not only the best bistro in Montparnasse, but one of the best bistros in Paris. Why? I’ll let the chef himself explain why...
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Daroco, Paris | Honest Italian Cooking and a Good Time – B-
Swordfish carpaccio with zucchini, raspberries and dill Almost no adjective in a restaurant review makes me warier than the word ‘fun,’ because overtly ‘good-times’ type places often don’t take their...
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Le Bistrot de la Galette, Paris | Montmartre Gets a Delightful New...
It’s some of the best news of la rentrée (the Fall/Autumn season) in Paris this year: With the opening of Le Bistrot de la Galette, there’s finally a charming restaurant in Montmartre that actually...
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Ore, Versailles | Ducasse’s Shrewd Take on Democratic Gastronomy, B+
Silver and gold: ‘It’s lovely, but where should we go for lunch?’ In the rather unlikely event you haven’t noticed, Alain Ducasse is a very shrewd man. With the opening of Ore, the new...
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L’Etoile du Nord, Paris | Honest Eats on the Run, B-
L’Etoile du Nord, the new brasserie at the Gare du Nord in Paris, one of the world’s busiest train stations, represents an admirable attempt to respond to the perennial challenge of feeding large...
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Divellec, Paris | High Tide at Les Invalides, or a Brilliant New Fish House, A-
@Romain Laprade The Divellec is one of the most beautiful new restaurants to open in Paris for a very longtime. As wonderfully louche as Studio K.O.’s Miami-meets-1940s Casablanca-in-Paris decor may...
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Ore, Versailles | Ducasse’s Shrewd Take on Democratic Gastronomy, B+
Silver and gold: ‘It’s lovely, but where should we go for lunch?’ In the rather unlikely event you haven’t noticed, Alain Ducasse is a very shrewd man. With the opening of Ore, the new...
View ArticleClik here to view.
L’Etoile du Nord, Paris | Honest Eats on the Run, B-
L’Etoile du Nord, the new brasserie at the Gare du Nord in Paris, one of the world’s busiest train stations, represents an admirable attempt to respond to the perennial challenge of feeding large...
View ArticleClik here to view.
Divellec, Paris | High Tide at Les Invalides, or a Brilliant New Fish House, A-
@Romain Laprade The Divellec is one of the most beautiful new restaurants to open in Paris for a very longtime. As wonderfully louche as Studio K.O.’s Miami-meets-1940s Casablanca-in-Paris decor may...
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Le Camondo, Paris | Summer in the City, B-
Le Camondo is a very clever restaurant. This makes great sense, too, because so was the family for which this table was named, and the space the restaurant occupies was formerly the garage and stables...
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Le Drugstore, Paris | Stylish Sustenance on the Champs Élysées, B
With a striking redesign by British designer Tom Dixon and a tempting new menu by three-star chef Eric Frechon, the legendary Le Drugstore at the top of the Champs-Élysées once again offers a good...
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Vins des Pyrénées, Paris | A Marais Bolthole Gets a Clever Reboot, B
@Yann Deret Tinkering with a neighborhood institution is always risky, but the new version of Vins des Pyrénées is a solid success. Why? Truth be told, this wonderful old hole-in-the-wall that’s been...
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