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Le Petit Lutétia, Paris | A Nice Old Neighborhood Place Gets Gentrified, B-/C+
When friends recently suggested meeting for Sunday dinner at Le Petit Lutetia, I looked forward to going as much for their company and a good dose of nostalgia as anything else. For the eleven years I...
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Jacopo, Paris | An Affordable French Take on Fast-Casual Dining, B-/C+
After reading several positive reviews of Jacopo, the new moderately priced bistro by Thibault Sombardier, a media-loving young chef who has a Michelin star at the seafood restaurant Antoine and who...
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Le Vaudeville, Paris | The Welcome Revival of a Great Parisian Brasserie, B-
Though the TripAdvisor reviews may not yet reflect it, Le Vaudeville, one of the most legendary brasseries in Paris, is back. Following a sensitive renovation by new owners the Groupe Bertrand, it’s...
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La Poule au Pot, Paris | The Charming Reboot of a Storied Bistro, A-/B+
Tucked away in one of the ancient and atmospheric side streets that survived the massacre of Les Halles*, the great central food market that was once ‘the Belly of Paris,’ La Poule au Pot is a...
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Le Rigmarole, Paris | Excellent Italian and Asian Eats in the 11th, A-/B+
Pickles On a warm summer night, Le Rigmarole turned out to be a perfect choice for dinner, because Franco-American chef Robert Compagnon’s small plates menu of yakitori, pastas, and tempura was...
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Au Petit Panisse, Paris | An Authentic Taste of Paris, B+
Coming through the door for the first time on a warm Sunday night, Au Petit Panisse delighted me, since it was such a perfect sketch of everything I miss about Paris when I spend a long period of time...
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Astair, Paris | A Suave 21st Century Take on the Paris Brasserie, B+
Astair is the newest address of a trio of the French capital’s most innovative restaurateurs–Jean Valfort, Charles Drouhaut and Jean-François Monfort. This team has real gift for delivering...
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Ibrik Kitchen, Paris | The Delicious Rusticity of Romanian Cooking, A-/B+
Because 2019 is still so new, telling you the meal I had at Ibrik Kitchen the other night was one of the best I’ve had all year doesn’t deliver adequate praise for the excellent “neo-nostalgic”...
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Le Chardenoux, Paris | An Old Timer Gets a Major Lift, B-
Through a succession of different owners and chefs, Chardenoux, now known as Le Chardenoux, has been part of my life in Paris for thirty years. Now this storied old bistro has been rebooted as a...
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Brasserie Bellanger, Paris | Good Cheap Gallic Grub, B
Victor and Charly, founders of the Brasserie Bellanger The recent opening of Brasserie Bellanger is another sign of one of the best dining trends in Paris today–the renaissance of city’s affordable...
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Restaurant Mieux, Paris | A Delightful Neighborhood Bistro, B+
Mieux, which means ‘better’ in English, is a wonderful name for a restaurant, because it declares gastronomic ambition but with a certain appealing humility. This charmingly decorated and cleverly...
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Pavyllon, Paris | Chef Yannick Alleno Goes for Counter Culture, A-/B+
With the opening of Pavyllon, chef Yannick Alleno has created a convivial new casual restaurant that aims to make his cooking available to a broader public than the one that can afford his Michelin...
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Peppe Pizzeria | The Best Pizza in Paris, A-
Ever since I’ve had teeth, few foods have more reliably made me happy than pizza, and this is why the pizza at pizzaïoulo Giuseppe Cutraro new Peppe Pizzeria in the 20th Arrondissement not far from...
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Assa, Blois | A Sublime Restaurant on the Banks of the Loire, A-
The Loire as seen from the dining room at Assa in Blois. On the overcast autumn day I went to lunch at Assa, I became so mesmerised by the mirrored view of the low gray sky on the skeining waters of...
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MoSuke, Paris | Mory Sacko’s Exquisite Franco-Afro-Japanese Cuisine, A-/B+
As the months roll by during the second national lockdown of France’s restaurants, I often find myself thinking of chef Mory Sacko and his intriguing restaurant MoSuke. The reason why is that I...
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Drum Cafe | An Excellent Restaurant at LUMA, Arles B+
Chefs Pierre Toitou and Cyril Pham The new Drum Cafe at the LUMA Foundation in Arles is an excellent example of how good a museum restaurant can actually be when someone cares about serving good...
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